The ability to identify 2 or 3 section 20ss chaton settings (AKA Figure 8 puddling) is one of the best ways to determine if an item is Juliana (D&E) or not. In this post I will help you learn how to identify this important Juliana (D&E) characteristic.
First some history on 2 or 3 section 20ss chaton settings. Mr DeLizza wrote in his book on page 31.
In 1955, my father had J.I. Manufacturing make us a two-section 20ss setting and a 3 section 20ss setting, straight and curved. This had two advantages, first, you did not have to solder those settings together, and second, the girls could set the stones faster in the multiple settings than in the singles settings.
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| Close up of the front of a 3 chaton setting. Notice how the prongs sort of look like fangs unlike regular chatons settings. |
So now that we know what figure puddling really is lets look at the photos. As you can see figure 8 puddling has the prongs set on the sides of the stones sort of like fangs and not set evenly around the stone. Note some even have 3 prongs not 4. This setting of the prongs is “key” along with the size of the rhinestones to determine figure 8 puddling. Without both of them then you do not have figure 8 puddling.
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| Front of 2 section chaton straight settings all around the edge of the brooch If it is a straight section of figure 8's all have 4 prongs. |
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| Back of 2 section chaton straight settings all around the edge of the brooch If it is a straight section of figure 8's all have 4 prongs. |
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| Front: 3 section curved chaton settings If it is a curved section the center chaton has 3 prongs. |
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| Back: 3 section curved chaton settings If it is a curved section the center chaton has 3 prongs. |
Now that we know what 2 to 3 section 20ss chaton setting look like. I have some examples of things that are not 2 ot 3 section 2ss chaton settings.
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| I AM NOT 2 OR 3 SECTION CHATON SETTINGS. Yes it does have fang prongs on the front. However notice the size is wrong, These are not 20ss chatons. These chatons are 12ss. So size is very important. If not 20ss, not matter how they look, they are not D&E 2 or 3 section chaton settings. |
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| I AM NOT 2 OR 3 SECTION CHATON SETTINGS. Yes it does have fang prongs on the front. However notice the size is wrong, These are not 20ss chatons. Also notice the bottom of the setting is pointed not flat. |
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| I AM NOT 2 OR 3 SECTION CHATON SETTINGS. There are setting that sort of look like figure 8's on the back but on the front they are multi-pronged. |
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| I AM NOT 2 OR 3 SECTION CHATON SETTINGS. Yes the back looks sloppy like figure 8's but there are no fangs on the front, and I have never see a figure 8 done with a pearl. Also the pearls are the wrong size.
Now we can summarize what we have learned about identifying 2 or 3 section 20ss chaton settings (AKA Figure 8 puddling).
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