Today we will discuss the square wire hangers Juliana (D&E) used. Square wire is how D&E attached articulated items to their jewelry. As in beads, drops, and other things that should move.
Usually the square wire is attached to the jewelry with a rivet.
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| Notice that the hangers that the beads attach to is square. |
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| Notice the rivets that are attaching the square wire to the brooch. |
Sometimes there was no way to use a rivet in the location that they wanted to put a dangle so they would just solder the same square wire hanger to the jewelry setting.
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| Notice there is no rivet but they soldered the same finding they usually riveted on to the back of the setting. |
There are a handful of D&E items that did not use square wire for attaching things that move and that is because it would have been impossible to use a rivet and square wire in that design. So they used a setting that had a loop built in.
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| The bead at the top of the design uses square wire but the ones at the bottom do not since they are attached to navettes. |
This last construction shown is very very unusual for Juliana (D&E) and most of the designs you see with this construction are not Juliana (D&E).
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Here is a D&E item that does not use square wire for the design. It would have been impossible to use a rivet with square wire so they used a setting that has a loop already attached |
There are other ways of attaching dangles to jewelry and they are not techniques used by Juliana (D&E).
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| Not Juliana (D&E) On this one you can see that the hanger the beads are attached to is not square wire. |
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| Not Juliana (D&E) You can see from the back that the bead hangers are not square wire but instead flat metal loops. This in this color and others is very very often called D&E. |
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| Not Juliana (D&E) This design and others very similar is always called Juliana (D&E). It is not Juliana (D&E). It is not done with square wire dangle hangers and the construction would have been fine to have them so that tells you it is not Juliana (D&E). |
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| Not Juliana(D&E) Here is a close up of the necklace. Notice it does not have square wire riveted to the back of the chaton. Instead it has chaton settings that have a bead hanger attached to them. |
Lets now summarize what we know about square wire.
- If it is square wire, it is Juliana (D&E).
- If it is not square wire and has a rivet it is not Juliana (D&E).
- If it has a built in setting with a loop attached and there would have been no way to use a rivet, it might be Juliana (D&E).
- If it does not have square wire and the hanger is attached to the side of the chaton setting then it is not Juliana (D&E).