Thursday, March 15, 2018

Juliana Butterflies - Part I

We are so lucky for the next few weeks Paula Knutson will be helping us in understanding the Juliana (D and E) butterflies.  Butterflies are one of the hardest things to identify in Juliana Jewelry. I like to call Paula the butterfly queen as she has more knowledge about identifying butterflies than anyone I know.
This is Part I of her blog.
Butterfly #1
Mr. DeLizza states that D and E made at least a hundred different butterflies. Dividing them up into like construction features is an easy way to learn about and become familiar with theirs. The BACK of a Butterfly brooch is more important than the front for identification. During the heydays of rhinestone jewelry a lot of copying and design pirating occurred, especially if your products were not marked and/or copyrighted.
Butterfly #2

We’ll start with the Wire Framed Wings. Everyone knows Butterflies have 4 wings.

Butterfly #3
#1 – All closed back stones - Filigree Antenna.  It is important to note on this design there are many variations on it, most of which are not Juliana.  If your butterfly of this design does not have this EXACT combination of stones in ALL closed back settings your butterfly is not Juliana.  It must also have these exact antenna.

#2 – All open back wing stones - Turned Up Wire Antenna - Figure 8’s at the tail.  This design is also found with other shapes of center stones.  The ones with the oval bodies don't have a figure 8 on the tail as they only have one rhinestone for a tail.

Butterfly #4
#3 – Cast wire wings and body – all closed back stones – Turned Up Wire Antenna.  The support wire is holding on the rhinestone squares.

#4 – All open wire wings – closed back stones – Turned Up Wire Antenna

Butterfly #5
#5 – Square wire wings – closed back stones – Turned Up Wire Antenna – Back Support Wire – Metal Accent Findings

#6 – Twisted wire wings – closed back stones – Rhinestone Tipped Antenna – Figure 8’s Lower Body

Butterfly #6
Another thing you will notice when looking at Juliana Butterflies is that the small ones do not have a built in pin back.  They have a one piece pin back.  This sort of pin back is NOT commonly used in Juliana except in the small figurals.  You will also find that the one piece pin back design will vary slightly even on the same butterfly.  I am sure this is due to using whatever one piece pin back they had in stock at the time.

Next week Paula will continue on with our exploration of butterflies.